Today in class with Gillian we learned how to construct a long sleeve leotard.
These are my notes on the step by step construction.
Step One
Draw Pattern. Make adjustments..
Step Two
Cut out Fabric
NOTE* mark the right side of each piece with chalk. This makes it easier to place pieces together with out having to think too hard about which is the right side.
TIP - The right side of Lyrca fabric feels itchy. The inside feels softer almost silky like. There are other ways to tell but I find this the easiest way to remember.
You should have 6 pattern pieces for this project.
Two sleeves, a front, a back, a bra shelf, a gusset.
The Assembly
Step Three
Elastic and Twin needle Bra shelf
Step Four
Join cotch seams together
In this order...
Gusset (rightside) up
Back - up
Front - down
Sew...
Step Five
Join back and front shoulder
(including the bra shelf with this. I made the mistake of forgetting it and had to unpick it)
Back - up
Front - down
Shelf bra - up
Sew...
Step Six
3 thread - attach bra shelf onto front ( not back)
Step Seven
Attaching the sleeves.
Sleeve always on top.
Make sure sleeve has a notch in the centre.
position hold underarm seam with end of sleeve seam. Hold centre notch on the centre shoulder seam. Stretch garment to ease in the curve of the shoulder in the sleeve. Once you have reached the centre point. Align the two end pieces together and continue.
repeat with second sleeve.
Step Eight
Closing the sleeve and the side seam of the leotard.
Start at the side seam and sew up to the armpit. before you sew over this seam push the front seam down and the back seam up. (This is to stop any bulking in this area). Working with front side up
Then along the other side - working with front side up. You start with the sleeve and work you way to the armpit. Again making sure you push the front seam up and the back seam down. (revered for before this will make sure both seams at the front are both pushed down.
Step Nine
Elasticate leggs and neckline
twin needle.
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